WHAT EVERY HOMEOWNER SHOULD KNOW
More than 98% of basements will experience some form of water damage at some point in their existence, but raw sewage in basement settings makes for a whole new brand of mess to clean up. Typically the result of backups in the main sewage line, which causes the pipes in the home to back up and flood, sewage contaminates everything it touches, easily multiplying the “difficulty in cleaning” factor almost exponentially. Sewage based flooding in basements accounts for over 500,000 cases every year. The environment created by such an event is not only aesthetically unpleasant, but physically challenging as well. Potentially deadly pathogens and toxins are introduced into the home, and harmful black mold can establish itself within 48 hours of the initial event. A study by the Civil Engineering Research Foundation found that the rate of sewage backups is going up by 5% annually largely due to an aging infrastructure (the average age of US sewer lines is 50 years). With older lines, especially those constructed of cast iron or clay (yes, clay), pipe breaks and collapses are all too easy. Small cracks can give entry to tree roots, which feast on the plentiful water and nutrients constantly running through. When these things happen, it becomes that much easier for a backup to occur. But even in the newest pipe, the wrong things going down the drain can be all it takes for the nightmare to unfold.
Did you know :
The most common causes of sewer backups are tree roots clogging pipes, FOG (Fats, Oils, and Grease) going down the drain, and connecting things like french drains, sump pump discharges, and other flood control systems to the sanitary sewer system (which is why such connections are usually not permitted). Blockages in main sewer lines can also be caused by soil settlement over time or collapsed pipes.“Flushable” wipes aren’t so flushable: utilities around the country have found them to be the chief culprit in many a clogged main sewer drain. Trash them! Municipalities with combined sewage and storm water systems are at a higher risk of being inundated by severe rainfall, resulting in backups.
Should you be the victim of a sewer drain backup:
While shutting off electricity to the entire house is the safest route, if it’s clear there’s no risk to the area(s) affected, you should be fine turning the power off only to those areas. Think about investing in a generator for future emergencies. Shut off water and gas supplies, as well. If there’s any possibility sewage may have come into contact with your home’s forced or central air-conditioning system, call the professionals for cleanup. Likewise, if you were away from the house and sewage has been inside for over 24 hours, the job has moved beyond your scope. Get it taken care of properly and professionally. Depending on the severity of the backup, it is entirely possible for you to deal with the cleanup yourself, with the proper safety precautions. Whatever you decide, be nimble and be quick: the longer wastewater sits, the greater the chances of illness and severe water damage.
If you do choose to clean the waters:
You’ll need rubber gloves, protective eyewear, and rubber boots, at the very least. Contact your local waste facility for the appropriate way to dispose of these and any other items after you’re finished cleaning up. Stay away from drain cleaners and other chemical options: they won’t do anything for a sewer backup, and could even make things worse by further damaging already-compromised pipes. The only thing to be done at this point is to clean up and dry out – dealing with the clog will have to come later. Getting the water out as soon as possible is key, and can be accomplished in several ways. Pumps are great for larger volumes of water, and wet-dry vacuums deal easily with solids. If water is shallow, but has a lot of debris/solids, a good push-broom may do the trick. With pumps, an ordinary sump or utility pump may work fine, but for large volumes of water with a lot of solids, look into an effluent or sewage pump that can pass them more easily. If you have a pump, or plan on using one in this kind of emergency, be sure to check with local authorities on where to drain the contaminated water. Most large equipment like generators can be rented. Be sure to inform whoever you’re renting from that the equipment is to be used for a sewer backup so the necessary disinfection measures can be taken afterward.
Once the water’s out:
To get things drying, use dehumidifiers and/or your air-conditioning (if ductwork is uncontaminated) with the windows closed. If these aren’t available, turn on fans and open windows and doors to get the air moving. Discard anything that’s been saturated: carpets, rugs, furniture, etc. Important papers, photos, and books can be sealed in a bag and put in a freezer – this will inhibit mold/mildew growth, and buy you time. Move anything that appears salvageable out of the contaminated area, preferably outdoors and onto a plastic barrier. If water has reached the walls, or you see a water line or staining, you’ll need to cut the drywall well above that point and replace it. If your walls have vinyl wallpaper, remove it to facilitate drying.
An initial disinfecting can help reduce the gross-out factor, and puts a dent in microbial growth. Using a bactericidal disinfectant (bleaches, etc.) diluted to manufacturer specifications, wipe and mop down contaminated surfaces. Follow this up with a deep-cleaning using detergent and water (the only way to physically remove contaminants and ensure safety). Let everything dry out (this could take a while), and follow that with a “real” disinfection, letting the bactericide sit for 15-20 minutes before cleaning. Depending on the severity of the clog, you may be able to clear it yourself using an auger (or “snake”) inserted through the sewer cleanout. If you don’t have any experience using one of these gadgets, or it fails to clear the line, call a plumber.
There are things you can do to help prevent backups in your service line, and minimize your role in any main line clogs :
Plumbing codes have required new homes to have a backflow prevention valve installed for some time now, but older homes can remain vulnerable. These valves prevent water from running through your pipes in the wrong direction, and are one of the best defenses against backups. We offer a variety of PVC and ABS backwater valves or PVC check valves, to keep you protected. Once installed, check them out at least once a year to ensure they’re unobstructed and operating properly.
Our Cyclone floor drains are an easy way to keep your basement clean and dry. Also worth considering are water alarms, which can be placed anywhere and let you know when water is somewhere it shouldn’t be. Since it’s unlikely that backup water will accumulate more than a few inches, simply setting appliances, equipment and other important, sensitive items above ground-level can potentially save you thousands.
Be sure that the downspouts from your rain gutters are directed away from the house, towards a lower elevation. Once or twice a month, fill up every sink and let them drain – the increased pressure can help dislodge blockages and move debris out. Many insurance companies offer coverage for sewer backups for an additional premium. If this is within your budget, it’s a good idea – backups can happen at any time and are often out of your control.
Of course if you do end up with raw sewage in your basement, your best and safest move would be to contact your local IICRC certified water damage restoration company. They are available 24/7 to service all of your sewage flooding and other water damage problems. They can have a qualified technician out to your home in less than an hour, who can assess your situation and begin the water damage restoration process immediately. File a Claim For insurance claim purposes, take before and after photos of the affected areas and itemize any property losses. Save all receipts related to repairs, cleaning or damages and contact your Independent Insurance Agent as soon as possible.